Easter Lily Plant (Lilium longiflorum): An Essential Indoor Care Guide

Easter lily plant is treasured for its elegant trumpet-shaped blooms and sweet fragrance around the spring holiday. Though native to outdoor gardens, they are commonly sold as potted plants for Easter. 

With some simple care adjustments, even apartment dwellers can enjoy healthy Easter lilies indoors. This guide covers everything from light and watering to troubleshooting problems, using clear tips and references for each aspect.

 

Quick-Reference Care Summary (Checklist)

• Light: Bright indirect light – ideally near an east or south window, but out of harsh midday sun. If natural light is limited, supplement with a full-spectrum grow light (e.g. LED or fluorescent) for 8–12 hours daily.
• Water: Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy. Water thoroughly when the top 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) of soil are dry. Drain well; never let the pot sit in standing water.
• Soil & Potting: Use a loose, well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0–7.0) is ideal. Always use a pot with drainage holes; remove any decorative foil or wrappers when watering.
• Temperature & Humidity: Keep daytime temperatures mild (about 65–75°F/18–24°C) and nights a bit cooler (around 55–65°F/13–18°C).
  Avoid placing the lily near heat vents, radiators, or cold drafts. Normal indoor humidity (30–50%) is usually sufficient, but if your air is very dry you can use a pebble tray or humidifier.
• Fertilization: Feed in the spring when new growth appears with a balanced or bloom-type (higher phosphorus) fertilizer.
  Use a diluted (half-strength) liquid fertilizer or slow-release granular formula, and avoid high-nitrogen “leafy” feeds. Stop fertilizing once bloom is finished.
• Repotting: Repot only when the plant is clearly root-bound or after a few years, and preferably after flowering or when new shoots emerge.
  Choose a pot about 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) larger in diameter with fresh potting mix. Handle the bulb gently and plant it at the same depth as before.
• Pruning & Maintenance: Remove (deadhead) spent flowers promptly by snipping the flower stalk down to its base. Allow yellow or brown foliage to die back naturally before cutting it to the soil line.
  Gently wipe leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust.
  Pinch out the bright yellow pollen-bearing anthers as soon as blossoms open, this keeps the blooms cleaner and can help each flower last longer. If stems become tall or heavy, support them with a stake to prevent bending.
• Common Problems: Watch for wilting or yellowing leaves (often a watering issue), aphids/spider mites (tiny insects on new growth), or mold on foliage (usually from too much humidity or poor air flow). See the troubleshooting section below for details.
• Propagation: Propagate by dividing bulbs (offset “bulblets”) after the plant has finished blooming and leaves die back. Allow bulbs to rest (cool and dry) before replanting. Propagating from seed is possible but takes several years to bloom.
• Bloom Tips: To maximize blooms indoors, keep the plant cool (especially at night) and in bright light, and remove spent flowers quickly. Good airflow and stable conditions will help each trumpet bloom fully.

 

Easter Lily Plant Indoor Light Requirements

Easter lilies thrive in bright light, but not harsh direct sun. Indoors, place the pot where it will get several hours of bright, indirect light each day. For example, an east-facing window (morning sun) or a south-facing window with sheer curtain is ideal. 

Intense afternoon sun can scorch the lily’s leaves, so if you only have a south or west window, keep the lily a few feet back or provide some light filtering. Rotate the plant occasionally so all sides get light and it grows evenly.

Many apartment windows are not bright enough for a flowering lily. Easter lilies are not truly low-light plants, so if your natural light is limited (e.g. a north window or deep shade), you should use supplemental lighting. 

 

A full-spectrum grow light (LED or fluorescent) can easily make up for the deficit. Aim to provide around 12–16 hours of light per day under the grow lamp to mimic a sunny day. Position the light about 12–18 inches (30–45 cm) above the plant – you’ll see its leaves reaching less toward the source if it’s bright enough

Insufficient light causes weak, “leggy” growth: stems stretch and become floppy, and flowering can fail. Inadequate light turns foliage pale or yellow, and the plant may drop leaves as it conserves energy. 

In contrast, with enough light the lily will grow upright stems with robust glossy leaves and will set many buds. 

Watch your plant: if it is reaching or leaning dramatically, it likely needs more light. A simple test is to see if the top of the plant gets about 1000–2000 foot-candles (about what a bright indoor window provides) for best flowering.

Tip: Use a clip-on LED grow light or a small fluorescent tube if you lack a bright window. These lights are inexpensive and can clip onto a shelf or stand. Keep them on a timer for a consistent day/night cycle. 

Even 10–12 hours under a good grow light will dramatically improve your Easter lily’s blooms in a low-light home.

 

Easter Lily Plant  Watering

Easter lilies like soil that is constantly moist but never waterlogged. A good rule is to water thoroughly, then let the top of the pot drain and remain barely damp until the next watering. Specifically, water when the top 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) of soil feels dry to the touch. 

This usually means roughly once or twice a week in active growth (less in cooler weather or dormancy). When watering, do so generously until excess drains from the pot’s bottom; then empty any water from the saucer or foil so roots do not sit in water.

Both overwatering and underwatering can harm Easter lilies. If the soil is kept soggy or the bulb sits in water, the roots will begin to rot – you’ll see yellowing leaves (especially at the base), wilting, and stunted growth. 

In fact, the most common issue with lilies is root rot from poor drainage or too-frequent watering. To prevent this, always use a fast-draining mix and a pot with drainage holes. 

Do not let the potting soil pool water; remove any decorative liners or foil wraps before watering so that water flows freely through the drainage holes.

On the other hand, if the plant becomes too dry, its leaves will droop or curl, especially new growth. Greg’s gardening guide on Easter lilies notes that drooping leaves and dry soil are clear signs of underwatering. 

Underwatered lilies can often be revived by soaking: water deeply until it runs out the bottom, then allow thorough drainage. However, try not to let the soil dry out completely, as sudden drought stress can weaken the plant and reduce blooming.

Signs of overwatering

Yellowing lower leaves that drop, a mushy or brown bulb base, or a musty smell in the soil. 

Remove any obviously rotted bulb parts. 

Signs of underwatering: Wilting or curling leaves, crispy or brown leaf edges, and a dry potting mix. In either case, adjust your watering schedule gradually.

Seasonal note: After the Easter bloom period, an Easter lily naturally goes into a rest phase. At that time (late spring or early summer), you should gradually reduce watering to avoid rot while the plant is dormant. 

If you plan to keep the bulb for next season, stop fertilizing and let the soil dry a bit between waterings. If keeping it in the pot over summer, water sparingly until new growth resumes in the fall or next spring.

 

Easter Lily Plant Soil and Potting

Plant your Easter lily in a light, well-draining potting mix. A good recipe is a commercial potting mix amended with organic matter (peat moss or compost) and extra perlite or coarse sand for drainage. 

The soil should hold some moisture yet never stay soggy. Easter lilies prefer a slightly acidic to neutral mix (pH roughly 6.0–7.0), though they tolerate a range of soil types if drainage is adequate. Avoid heavy clay or pure peat soils that stay too wet or dry out too much.

Choose a deep container for your lily. A pot at least 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) deep is ideal, since the bulb and roots can grow several inches down. Ensure the pot has one or more drainage holes. 

If you have a decorative cachepot without holes, put the planted bulb in a smaller pot or grow pot with holes inside the decorative pot. When you water, remove the inner pot for drainage, or make sure no water accumulates under the outer cover.

When planting, place the bulb so that its neck (the pointy top) is just at or slightly above the soil surface, with about 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of soil over the top of the bulb. Fill around the bulb with your potting mix and firm gently. After planting, water lightly to settle the soil. 

For bulbs purchased already potted (like a store-bought Easter lily), it often comes in a small temporary pot. It’s a good idea to re-pot into a slightly larger permanent pot with fresh soil if the bulb seems snug or if the soil looks spent.

Drainage tip: Remove any plastic bag or foil wrapper from the pot before watering (especially at purchase), as these can trap water around the base. 

Easter lilies indoors should be in a container with drainage holes and you should water thoroughly until you see water coming out the bottom. Allow it to drain fully and then replace any decorative wrapper. This prevents the bulb from sitting in excess water.

If reusing potting soil from year to year (for overwintering bulbs), refresh it lightly by mixing in new compost or slow-release fertilizer to replace nutrients. 

Soil can become compacted over time, so occasionally loosen the top layer when watering to improve drainage and aeration.

 

Easter Lily Plant Temperature and Humidity

Easter lilies like cool, stable indoor climates. Daytime temperatures around 65–75°F (18–24°C) are ideal, while nighttime temps of 55–65°F (13–18°C) will extend bloom life. 

High heat can shorten flowering: keep the plant out of any room that gets hotter than about 75°F (24°C). Avoid drafts from air conditioners or heaters, and keep the plant a few feet away from direct heat vents and radiators. 

If your living space runs warm, consider moving the lily to a cooler area at night or turning down the thermostat slightly during flowering – cooler nights help the blooms last.

Normal household humidity (around 30–50%) generally suffices for Easter lilies. They do not need very high humidity. In fact, overly humid, stagnant air can encourage gray mold. 

If your air is very dry (common in winter with heating), you can increase humidity slightly by placing a shallow tray of water with pebbles near the plant or using a humidifier in the room. 

 

It is specifically recommends a humid environment and suggests a humidifier or pebble tray to keep the air moist. Just avoid misting the flowers directly, as wet petals can be damaged or invite rot.

One more temperature tip: many gardeners move their potted Easter lilies to a cooler room at night (or open a window if safe) to mimic spring nights. This can prolong bloom time. As Spruce notes, cooler nights around 55–60°F are recommended for lasting flowers.

In summary: think “spring-like” conditions – neither tropical hot nor chilly cold. If your HVAC (heater or AC) makes one corner of the apartment much warmer or drier than another, position the lily in a middle ground (e.g. away from vents and windowsills that get blasted by cool drafts).

 

Easter Lily Plant Fertilization

Easter lilies don’t need heavy feeding, but a little nutrition at the right time can support healthy growth and future blooms. 

Timing is important: fertilize only when the plant is actively growing new foliage. For potted lilies, that typically means in early spring (right after the forced blooms finish and new shoots appear). Do not fertilize during flowering or deep dormancy.

Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer (for example 10-10-10 N-P-K) or a bloom booster (with higher phosphorus, like 5-10-5). One recommended approach is to apply a slow-release granular fertilizer around the base when shoots emerge. 

Alternatively, feed with a weak liquid fertilizer every 3–4 weeks during the growing season. An organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion or blood meal can also work (as long as it’s diluted and applied carefully to avoid burning the bulb).

The key is moderation. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, as excess nitrogen will encourage lush green leaves but few blooms. 

 

Note that “heavy nitrogen fertilization encourages leaves at the expense of flowers”. A gentle, balanced or slightly phosphorus-lean formula is best for flowering bulbs.

After the bloom period, there’s usually little need to feed again unless new leaves are emerging that season. Some gardeners give one more feeding after blooming to help replenish the bulb, then cut back as the plant enters dormancy. 

If you keep the plant as a houseplant through summer, you can feed monthly at half strength until late summer; but if you plan to stop watering for dormancy (see below), cease fertilizing as well.

Do’s and Don’ts: Do follow the label directions on your fertilizer, and never apply it directly on top of dry leaves or flowers. 

Spread it evenly in the soil and water in gently. 

Don’t assume a blooming pot requires daily feeding – in fact, many pre-potted Easter lilies have enough nutrients for one season. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots, so when in doubt dilute the feed.

 

Easter Lily Plant Repotting

Easter lilies generally like to stay in the same pot for a year or two. Repotting is usually done only when the plant is clearly root-bound or to refresh the soil. 

Signs that your lily needs repotting include roots growing out of the pot bottom, water running straight through the soil, or the plant becoming top-heavy and tipping.

When to repot: The best time is usually after flowering, once all the blooms have faded and the foliage begins to yellow. 

At that point the plant is entering dormancy, so disturbing it then is less likely to shock a bloom cycle. Some gardeners also repot in early spring when new growth starts, but avoid repotting in mid-bloom as it can stress the plant.

 

When you do repot, choose a new container only slightly larger (1–2 inches wider) than the old one. Easter lilies do not need a huge pot; too much extra soil can hold excess moisture. The pot should still have good drainage holes. 

Add fresh high-quality potting mix as described above. Remove the old soil gently from the roots and bulb. If the bulb has any decayed or mushy parts, trim them off. 

Place the bulb so that the neck is at about the same soil level as before (usually its point is just above the soil surface). Fill in with soil, firm lightly, and water well to settle.

Repotting steps (after bloom or in spring):

 

• Carefully unpot the lily. Remove loose soil from the roots.
• Inspect the bulb and roots; trim any rotten bits.
• Select a new pot with holes, a bit larger in diameter.
• Fill a layer of fresh mix in the bottom, set the bulb in, then fill around and above it so the bulb’s shoulder is just covered.
• Water the plant thoroughly so any air pockets are filled. Let it drain fully.

After repotting, keep the soil evenly moist and continue care as usual. Spruce warns that Easter lilies are prone to waterlogging, so ensure the new soil has good aeration. 

If you cannot repot immediately after flowering, you can also leave the lily in its current pot until the next season, provided it’s not too cramped.

Note: Store-bought Easter lilies often say “don’t repot after flowering.” This advice assumes you will plant the bulb outdoors or let it go dormant. 

If you’re treating the lily as a houseplant, repotting once won’t hurt, but doing it repeatedly every year isn’t necessary. Many gardeners find that leaving the bulbs in the same pot for a couple of years, then dividing or replanting, works fine.

Easter Lily Plant Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning Easter lilies is mostly about deadheading spent blooms and removing dying foliage. Regular upkeep keeps the plant looking tidy and directs energy appropriately.

• Deadheading blooms
  As each flower fades (usually after about 1–2 weeks), cut the flower stalk off at its base using clean scissors or pruners. This prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production.
  Don’t strip off the whole green stem unless it yellows; just remove the spent flower and any brown stamen parts.
  Removing the anthers (the pollen-bearing parts) when a flower first opens is also good practice: it prolongs the bloom’s life and prevents messy yellow pollen from falling.
• Leaf care: Allow healthy green leaves to remain until they yellow naturally – they are collecting energy for the bulb. When a leaf turns completely yellow or brown, you can trim it off at the base.
  Use scissors or pinch it carefully; do not yank out leaves as this can damage the bulb. Cleaning dust off leaves with a soft damp cloth every few weeks helps the plant photosynthesize efficiently.
• Removing spent foliage
  After all flowers have faded and the stems die back, some growers cut the entire plant down to about 1 inch above soil.
  You may cut stems to soil level at the end of the season. This prevents any pest or disease from overwintering in the dead tissue and makes repotting or storage easier.
• Staking
  Tall Easter lilies can become top-heavy when in bloom. You may need to stake the plant to help it stay upright.
  Use a bamboo stake or thin rod, and loosely tie the stem to it with soft plant ties. This is especially useful if you have multiple buds on one stalk.
• Prevent legginess: If you notice the stems growing long and floppy (leggy), it’s usually due to insufficient light.
  Ensure the plant is getting enough bright light and rotate it occasionally. Avoid pinching lateral shoots – lilies generally grow as a single main stem, so focus on light rather than pruning for compactness.
• General maintenance: Check regularly for signs of pests or disease (see next section).
  Keep the plant in a stable spot – sudden moves, drastic changes in light or temperature, or near appliances that generate heat (like ovens) can stress it. If any leaves get dirty or spotted (for example, from pollen or dust), gently wipe them.

A monthly light misting of water on leaves (not flowers) can help with humidity, or place the pot on a water-filled pebble tray to raise humidity around it. 

Just ensure air circulation remains good. Overall, minimal pruning is needed; just keep up with dead flowers and yellow leaves, and the plant will take care of the rest.

 

Easter Lily Plant Common Problems and Troubleshooting

Even with good care, Easter lilies can encounter a few issues. Here are common problems and how to fix them:

• Yellowing leaves
  
  
  1. Natural aging: Lower leaves will turn yellow and die off as the bulb cycles. If it’s just a few old leaves at the base, this is normal. Trim them off once fully brown.
  2. Overwatering: If new or middle leaves yellow, the soil often is too wet. Root rot can cause leaves to yellow starting at the base. Fix: Check drainage, let the soil dry a bit longer between waterings, and if needed repot into fresh mix.
  3. Crowding: In an outdoor bed, lilies can crowd each other causing yellowing leaves. This is rare in a single potted plant but worth noting if you see yellowing leaves after planting offsets. Dividing bulbs can help.
  4. Nutrient issues: Lack of nitrogen shows as yellow leaves; this can happen if you’ve withheld fertilizer too long, especially on very old soil. A balanced feed can green things up, but avoid overfeeding.
• Leaf drop
  Sudden loss of leaves can happen if the plant is shocked (like after repotting, or if underwatered for too long).
  Usually this corrects once watering and environment are adjusted. If leaves are dropping in the flowering period, double-check watering (Greg notes wilting leaves are a sign of water stress).
• Pests:
  1. Aphids
     Tiny green, white, or black insects, often on new shoots or buds. They suck sap, causing distorted growth.
     You may see sticky honeydew or sooty mold. If found, hose the plant down or apply a gentle insecticidal soap. Spraying under the leaves helps dislodge them. Check especially the underside of leaves regularly.
  2. Spider Mites
     Look for very fine webbing and tiny speckles on leaves (often on undersides). Thrips and whiteflies can also appear.
     Any of these can be treated with an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. For mild infestations, wiping leaves and stems with a damp cloth or water spray often suffices.
  3. Mealybugs/Scale
     White cottony patches or brown shell-like bumps on stems. Remove by hand or cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or use insecticidal soap.
  4. Thrips
     Can cause petals to look silvery or brown-speckled. Regular inspection and prompt removal of affected flowers helps.
  5. Lily Beetle
     The bright red lily beetle is a notorious pest of lilies outdoors. It’s unlikely to appear on an indoor plant, but if you see any unexpected red bugs, pick them off immediately (and drop them in soapy water).
  6. Fungus Gnats
     If you see little flies over the soil, it means the topsoil is staying too moist. Allow the soil to dry more between waterings or use a layer of sand on top to deter them.
• Diseases:
  1. Botrytis (Gray Mold):
     Appears as fuzzy gray spots on leaves or buds, especially in cool, humid conditions. To avoid this, ensure good airflow and water in the morning so foliage dries during the day. Remove any affected parts immediately.
  2. Root/Pot Rot
     Caused by fungi (Pythium, Rhizoctonia) in waterlogged soil. Prevent by using a free-draining mix, pots with holes, and not overwatering. If detected (rotting smell or mushy roots), repot into fresh soil and cut away rot.
  3. Leaf Scorch
     Brown margins on leaves from very dry air or over-fertilization. Ensure humidity is adequate (but not excessive) and don’t get fertilizer on the leaves.
  4. Viral Diseases
     Lily mosaic virus causes streaking or mottling of leaves; it’s incurable. Aphids often spread it. If you suspect a virus (pale mosaic patterns that won’t go away), best to destroy the plant and start with a healthy new bulb.
  5. Nematodes
     Uncommon indoors, but these tiny worms can cause yellowing or bunchy growth. Use sterile potting mix and clean tools to prevent.
• No Flowers
  Easter lilies naturally bloom only once per stem. If you bought a bloom and it dies, that stem will not rebloom.
  However, if the plant has healthy leaves afterward, the bulb may produce a new flower the next spring (or summer) if properly stored.
  For forcing blooms in time for Easter, store-bought lilies are usually treated before sale to bloom early, which is different from their natural cycle.
  In general, if a lily fails to open its buds, it might need more light or cooler nights to set the flowers.
• Dormancy: After blooming, foliage will yellow and die back – this is normal. At that point, you have options:
  1. Let the bulb rest in the pot
     
     Stop watering and let the soil dry out. Store the pot in a cool, dark place (around 45–55°F, like a basement or garage) for a few months. Then replant in fresh soil in early spring. This mimics overwintering.
  2. Plant outdoors: If you live in USDA Zones 5-8, you can acclimate the potted bulb and then plant it in the garden in fall or spring. It will go through natural dormancy outdoors.
  3. Discard: If you prefer, Easter lilies are often treated as annuals or temporary houseplants and then discarded after bloom. But keeping the bulb will give you lilies in the years to come.

Easter Lily Plant Propagation Tips

Easter lilies reproduce mainly via bulbs, not cuttings. Propagation methods:

• Offsets (Bulblets)
  
  The easiest way is to divide the bulbs. After the plant has finished blooming and the foliage dies back (usually late spring to early summer), gently dig up the main bulb.
  You will find smaller bulbs (bulblets or “offsets”) attached around the main one. Separate these by hand or carefully cut them apart.
  Each offset can be potted in its own container at the same depth it was growing (shoot side up, pointed end up) with fresh soil.
  Space newly planted bulblets about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart. Keep them lightly moist. It will take a couple of years of growth for these baby bulbs to reach flowering size (usually 2–3 years).
  • Steps to separate bulblets:
    1. Wait until leaves have turned yellow, then lift the bulbs.
    2. Look for the small rounded bulblets at the base.
    3. Gently twist or cut them off without damaging the main bulb.
    4. Pot them up immediately 3–6 inches deep, or store them in a cool dry place until fall.
    5. Water sparingly and keep cool until they sprout.
• Scale Cuttings
  
  More advanced gardeners sometimes propagate lilies from individual scales of a bulb. A mature bulb can be peeled, and each scale dipped in hormone powder and placed in moist peat or vermiculite.
  Over several weeks or months, new tiny bulbs form on each scale. This method requires sterile conditions and patience (2+ years to bloom), so it’s usually not done by beginners. If you’re curious, follow a detailed guide on lily scale propagation.
• Seeds: Easter lilies can also produce seed pods if pollinated. You can collect and sow seeds indoors, but growing from seed is very slow.
  Seeds require a cold stratification period to germinate and may take 4–5 years to produce flowers. This method is generally used by breeders, not casual growers.
• Potted bulb division
  
  If your potted lily has only one bulb, you can pot it and simply let it produce its offsets in the same pot over time.
  In a large pot you might see small bulbs forming around the sides after a couple of years. These can then be separated as above.

Remember to label any pots when propagating so you know which offsets came from which parent bulb! Also, use clean pots and sterilized tools to avoid spreading any bulb rot.

 

General Tips for Maximizing Growth and Blooms Indoors

• Choose a healthy plant: When buying an Easter lily, look for one with lots of green foliage and many closed buds, rather than a plant that’s already blooming out.
  A bushy plant with mostly buds will last longer and likely produce more flowers over time. Avoid any with yellowing or spotted leaves, or obvious pest damage.
• Use a saucer of water for humidity: Group your lily with other plants or place its pot on a shallow tray of water with pebbles (so the pot sits on the pebbles, not in water). This raises local humidity without wetting the leaves.
• Rotate and turn: Rotate the pot every few days so all sides of the plant get even light. This prevents the stem from bending toward the light source and encourages even flower/bud development.
• Clean environment: Keep the area around the plant tidy. Fallen petals or leaves should be removed to prevent pests. Also, remove any spent foil or wrappers from the pot after watering to ensure air can circulate around the base.
• Check water quality: Easter lilies prefer water that is not too high in salts. If your tap water is very hard, consider letting it sit overnight before watering (to allow chlorine to evaporate) or using filtered water occasionally.
• Support blooming: Each stem can hold multiple blooms. Do not remove any buds – even after one flower opens, new ones will come. If you must shorten a stem, do it at the very base, and only after the entire flowering is truly done.
• Pollen removal: To keep your home clean (and cats safe!), remove the long pollen-covered anthers from each flower as soon as it fully opens. This also helps the flower last longer.
• Avoid drafts during flowering: Rapid temperature swings can cause buds to drop. Keep the lily in a stable spot away from open doors or windows when buds are forming.
• Long-term care: After the spring blooming, if you want future blooms, handle the bulb as described (let it go dormant, then replant).
  If you treat the lily as an annual, enjoy the blooms and then discard or compost. Many plant lovers actually plant Easter lily bulbs outside in fall so they come up year after year as perennials.

By following these tips and paying attention to your plant’s needs (light, water, and temperature), you can enjoy your Easter lily’s stunning flowers indoors for as long as possible. 

With consistent care, many people find that a forced Easter lily can last two weeks in bloom, and if the bulb is saved, it may even flower again in subsequent seasons.

Important Safety: Remember that Easter lilies are extremely toxic to cats (and dogs to a lesser extent). All parts of the plant, including pollen, can cause kidney failure in cats. Keep your lily well away from pets.